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Paris Fashion Week features stunning excess by Armani, a buttoned ballet by Chanel, and a magnificent tribute to spring by Alexis Mabille.

A massive pair of open metal scissors was manoeuvred past by guests at Chanel’s Spring Couture show, including Kendrick Lamar and Naomi Campbell, giving the event an otherworldly feel.Paris Fashion Week 

Paris Fashion Week by feature fashion
A bizarre atmosphere pervaded Chanel’s Spring Couture presentation on Tuesday, as high-profile attendees like as Kendrick Lamar and Naomi Campbell had to figure out how to get past a massive pair of open metal scissors. That emblematic entryway prepared the audience for a Parisian theater-in-the-round presentation. The button, a modest yet revolutionary piece of clothing, was the focus of the show. The theme appeared in a short film starring Naomi Campbell as a massive sculpture that descended from the ceiling, a feat of fashion theatrics that had attendees gasping with excitement and garnered a nod of approval from the equally stunning director of films, Baz Luhrmann. Paris Fashion Week

Paris Fashion Week

Though it wasn’t always so, the button is now a modest symbol. The women’s suit, popularised by Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel, is credited with revolutionising fashion. According to the house, the button on the front of the suit was essential in enabling women to “rid themselves of everything that had prevented them from moving freely.” Paris Fashion Week

Paris Fashion Week by feature fashion

The button was transformed into a diamond by artistic director Virginie Viard in Tuesday’s frothy and sparkling couture display, which was on display beneath the tall ceilings of the Grand Palais Ephemere. It permeated a collection that valued dance and ballet’s freedom of movement. Paris Fashion Week

Viard scattered the button-jewels across opposing and frequently segmented forms, adding a dash of drama to the dance stage. The presentation began with a dramatic ruffled neck piece made of tulle, which set the stage for looks like an A-line black minidress that perfectly embodied the figure of a ballerina. The layering of the collection over tights and ballerina leotards made for an exquisite runway walk. Paris Fashion Week

The house was very conscious of its past: in 2024, it would have been a century when Coco Chanel made her ballet design debut. Leon Bakst and Sergei Diaghilev’s vivid vision of the Ballets Russes was reflected in the collection’s pink and white aquarelle colour scheme. “At Chanel, dance is an integral theme. We frequently design the ballet’s costumes and have strong ties to its organisations, dancers and choreographers’, Viard remarked.
Paris Fashion Week by feature fashion
The dresses mirrored the voluminous tulle skirts and taut bodices typical of the Ballets Russes. Additionally, the collection included long dresses, jumpsuits, and transparent short straight skirts. Each piece was further woven with the ballet concept through elaborate embroidery that depicted drapery, tiny bows, illusion tulle pockets, and lace belts.
Nevertheless, Viard’s collections still lack the cohesiveness—the predominance of a single overarching aesthetic in every season—that was strongly linked to her late predecessor, Karl Lagerfeld. Lagerfeld passed away in 2019.

CHANEL’S CINEMATIC ODE

Paris Fashion Week by feature fashion
Before the show began, a fashion film featuring Andie MacDowell’s daughter Margaret Qualley lit up the runway’s draped walls with a fantastical storyline helmed by Dave Free. The storyline, which at points brings to mind Barbra Streisand’s famous performance in “Funny Girl,” tells the tragicomic story of a stunning young woman who travels to Paris in a frantic attempt to find a misplaced button.
On January 20, 2024, British model Naomi Campbell will unveil a piece at the Grande halle de la Villette in Paris as part of the Balmain Menswear Ready-to-wear Fall-Winter 2024/2025 collection show.(Image courtesy of AFP/ALAIN JOCARD)

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